SAUGATUCK, ALLEGAN COUNTY

When I first visited Saugatuck in the 1970’s, it was a sleepy little village with practically no visitors besides some boaters. Now it is a year round tourist mecca with throngs of people. It’s still a enjoyable place to visit. Taking a stroll downtown should be part of your visit.

Your kayaking adventure includes Kalamazoo Lake, Kalamazoo River, and Oxbow Lake. This is a round trip. Launch and take out are at the same spot. I used the Union Street boat launch on Kalamazoo Lake. It is located on Blue Star Highway just southwest of the Blue Star Bridge over the Kalamazoo River. A replica lighthouse is next to the landing and serves as a good landmark. Fee is seven bucks as of June 2020.

If you don’t mind a longer trip, there are two landings upstream between the Blue Star Bridge and the I-196 Bridge: Wades Bayou and Schulz Park.

My trip began on a weekday in early June of 2020. I lucked out. There was no boat traffic so I paddled due north across the middle of Kalamazoo Lake. If boat traffic is heavy, I recommend paddling the shoreline of Kalamazoo Lake as much as possible. The Kalamazoo River flows pretty much in a northerly direction through Saugatuck and points downstream. When you enter the Kalamazoo River from Kalamazoo Lake, observe the rules of navigation and paddle on the east side of the river.

Boats of all shapes and sizes line the water’s edge on both sides of the river. The village waterfront is an interesting mix of bars, shops, restaurants, lodging, and businesses. A chain ferry crosses the river and it has the right-of-way over all vessels, including kayaks. Once you leave the business district, the river takes on a more rural character.

Hills go down to the river’s edge. Beautiful homes are perched on the sides and tops of the hills. Boats are docked in front of the homes. Saugatuck takes on a entirely different look during the colder months of the year. The following photos were taken from shore on a winter-like day in early April.

Fast forward to summer! Just before the river makes a slow curve to the west toward the river mouth, there is a swampy area on the west side of the river. This is where the channel to Oxbow Lake begins.

The channel is easy to spot and heads west through the swamp to Oxbow Lake. The lake was formed when a new river channel was constructed in 1906. The ends of the old river channel drifted shut with silt and sand and the lake was created. The only development on the lake is the small Oxbow School Of Art. Much of the land surrounding the lake is parkland and nature preserve, so it has a remote feel. On the east and south sides of the lake, steep wooded dunes come right down to the water’s edge. Some of the wooded dunes are over 200 feet tall.

The north and west sides of the lake are characterized by wetlands and low dunes.

Parts of the lake are lined with dead birch trees, victims of high water.

There is a home on the southwest end of the lake. It was originally a lighthouse. The lighthouse was destroyed by tornado in 1956 and was rebuilt using some of the original materials salvaged from the 1859 structure.

This scenic body of water nestled in the dunes is a true gem.

Sadly, all trips must come to an end. After you paddle back to the river, you have the option of heading downstream to the river mouth and Lake Michigan. Otherwise, head south, upstream, towards the village. Paddle on the west side of the river. I shared the river with the stern paddle wheeler “Star of Saugatuck”.

As before, exercise caution with the boat traffic. I was concerned that paddling against the current on the return route would be difficult. My fears were unfounded. The current was negligible, practically nonexistent next to the shore. I lucked out and had a stiff breeze at my back on the way across Kalamazoo Lake and I didn’t have to paddle much across the lake to the landing. I hope you have as good of a time as I did on this adventure.

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Author: Ron Vader

Outdoor Enthusiast and Avid Kayaker

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